WELCOME TO NAMIBIA RIDES
Namibia
Over dinner one night in a beautiful Tuscan trattoria, one of our well travelled riders told us we must go check out Namibia with it’s miles of gravel & amazing scenery. We didn’t need to be asked twice. So, during the depth of a grey British winter, we sent Josh and Helen off to explore the country for ten days. A trip made possible by the brilliant local guides who helped us out – Nature Friend Safaris. A huge thanks to Marc, Leander & the team for sharing their passion, knowledge and beautiful country with us. They were essential in helping us discover some amazing gravel trails & getting an insight into local culture.
While many people might assume sand dunes and desert would be the exclusive backdrop when cycling through Namibia, it is so much more than that. High plateaus, long ocean beaches, game parks teeming with wildlife and stunning rock formations are much more the reality. And glorious, gravel trails – thousands of them. Before heading out, we drafted up a list of the areas that we really wanted to see, and Marc & Leander crafted some amazing daily routes for us to ride with them.
GETTING THERE & GETTING STARTED
FLYING FROM LONDON TO WINDHOEK
Getting to Namibia from London went smoothly. It did require a stop along the way, as there are no direct flights. The option to add an extra stop along the journey could certainly be a bonus, too, as there are loads of connection possibilities available. Josh flew via Germany with Lufthansa, Helen went via Ethiopia (and spied lots of gravel there from the plane!). Landing at our staging city of Windhoek, it was immediately clear that Namibia was going to impress us. The vibrant, modern city of Windhoek, with it’s metropolitan cafes and stunning architecture, immediately established the theme for the trip – expecting the unexpected, but in a good way.
Windhoek made an ideal city to build up our bikes, finalise our plans and to recharge ourselves for the journey ahead. Dinner was an unforgettable experience at an iconic local gem known as Joe’s Beerhouse. The restaurant offers an excellent introduction to the local cuisine, influenced by Namibia’s German colonial roots. Having dinner and drinks amongst the fascinating, eclectic collection of artifacts and antiques scattered throughout restaurant made for an entertaining evening.
Even from our first few impressions of Namibian cuisine, it was evident that it was a nation of real meat-lovers. This is big-game country, and travellers here can sample an array of dishes ranging from zebra to oryx – alongside more typical options such as chicken, beef steaks, and fish, of course. Josh, being a vegan, could see right away that his meal planning would be more challenging here than many other places. Making sure we could provide great food options for future trips was, as always, one of our goals here.
STAGE 1
For the first leg, we tested out our bikes on some shake-down riding around Windhoek, and then explored a possible option of staying at the nearby exclusive glamping site of Fritzposten. We were determined to explore as many of the potential route options as possible, so we were covering a lot of ground in this trip. That meant adhering to a more condensed timeline compared to the fuller trips ahead. So after making sure we were happy with the set up of our bikes and gear, we bolted off towards our night’s accommodation – The Rostock Ritz.
While we managed a respectable 110 km section on the bikes, we were still acclimatising, and the 40 degree midday temperatures proved a lot to handle! Luckily, the absolutely stunning beauty of the terrain we were riding through made up for the heat, with wide-open gravel roads inviting us along. Washboard is a reality here, and finding our groove on it proved challenging.
Both of our bikes had wider tyre set-ups than normal, running with 55mm and 50mm sizes, and the wider tyres would turn out to be essential in the overall riding ahead. Along our way, we stopped for lunch and a plunge into the pool at the oasis that is the Rooisland Desert Ranch, a place that will be a great overnight spot for the more comprehensive itinerary being planned. Our schedule, however, had us jumping ahead to the unforgettable Rostock Ritz. Refreshed by our swim and nourishing lunch, we piled into the truck and zipped 65km ahead.
The Rostock Ritz Desert Lodge is an example of the uncluttered beauty of Namibia. The very unique lodge is tucked into the rocky outcrops and dunes of the Namib desert, providing rolling vistas of the wide open landscape. For many guest here, watching the light change into various pastel colours from the lodge’s refreshing pool is a highlight of their visit. Ancient rock paintings, some over 1000 years old, are a testament to the rich history of ancient civilizations still living in this area, even though there appears to be no people for hundreds of miles.
Ride Distance: 116 km
Ride Elevation: 896 m
% Off Road: 90%
STAGE 2
Leaving the soul-healing quietness of the Rostock Ritz behind, we spun through one of the longer sections, the 130 km trek down to Sesriem. A remote hamlet located near the Namib-Naukluft National Park, the possible outings from Sesriem are endless, making a riding break here mandatory. The scenery simply demands time to soak it all in. Some of the largest sand dunes in the world are located here, making this area one of Namibia’s best-known attractions. Well known as a photographer’s dream location, the ivory coloured clay hardpan of the Sossusvlei plain is ringed with immense red sand dunes, arching off into what seems like an infinity. Names like Big Daddy, Dune 45 and Elim Dune identify the colossal sleeping giants within the park.
After a quick exploration of the area we were off again, as our itinerary had our second leg of the trip finishing up with an exploration of Swakopmund – where desert meets ocean on Namibia’s Skeleton Coast. With the tiny settlement of Sesriem and the majestic red dunes disappearing behind the team, we would our way toward the coast.
Exploring the great trail riding in the area of Swakopmund was the next order of business. Technical trails pushed the boundaries of the gravel bikes, even with the beefier tires. These trails are the haunts of suspension bikes, and gravel bikes like Josh and I were riding are an exotic breed here. Breathtaking adrenaline is the best way to describe the riding we did around Swakopmund, although there are loads of more gentle trails available too. Having the expert local knowledge gave us an edge to find just the right trails that we were seeking.
The local guides burned up the trails on big-squish mountain bikes, but even still, our gravel bikes were able to hold their own. Finishing up riding for the day, we made our way to a highly recommended dinner spot – a seafood restaurant on the ocean called The Tug. Arriving just in time to watch the sun sink into the piercing blue of the Atlantic Ocean, we feasted on a fabulous meal.
Ride Distance: 60 km
Ride Elevation: 498 m
% Off Road: 98 %
STAGE 3
Driving north towards Henties Bay, we set ourselves up on the next leg – a 110 km gravel road into Spitzkoppe. The day actually started off quite cool, catching Josh and I by surprise. The cold currents of the Atlantic bully ashore some refreshingly cool winds, even sneaking in some foggy mornings to shroud the arid land. For the beginning of this ride, jackets were actually donned in order to warm up. But once the Atlantic was left behind, searing desert temperatures quickly returned.
By midday, we had reached the punishing 40 degree temperature mark again, and having the support vehicle close by was a blessing. More than a few times, there was not a speck of shade in any direction. It was disconcerting, at first. Nothing moving, not a living thing in sight. When our wheels stopped rolling, the world seemed to stop too. Not a sound, just a shimmering mirage in the distance making it all that much more surreal.
At times like that, the team would take full advantage of the shade offered by the support truck. An ice cold drink in the shade of the vehicle also provided the perfect spot to study the landscape, and discuss the riding thus far. The gravel washboard was not as difficult as anticipated, made easier by the road maintenance crews. Frequent grading kept the majority of the route in pretty good nick. Refreshed by a cool drink, Josh and I began to churn through the remainder of the day’s riding, making our way through the desert toward a jumbled rock protrusion known as Spitzkoppe. It could be seen from a long distance away, perched on the horizon. But in a sort of magic trick, it somehow seemed not to get closer, or grow larger, until it suddenly popped out from it’s own shimmering halo – right in front of us. Spitzkoppe is one of the world’s truly magical places, a hidden gem along an unknown gravel road.
Spitzkoppe proved to also have a wonderful camp spot, one that would surely provide stunning sunset views and great star gazing. This would be a great place to spend a night on the upcoming full tour. After notes were made about the site and the route to get here, we were off to check out the next location on the list – the town of Uis, and our accommodation for the night.
This region of Namibia transitions back into game park area, and the terrain is spotted with occasional watering holes, providing a green oasis for the big game animals that roam here. This change in terrain also means additional variations in altitude, and heaps of interesting side trails. Both single track and open trails combined with wide gravel roads, making for great riding diversity. Our night here was spent at the Elephant Lodge, renowned for excursions to view the local elephant populations. Our tight schedule had us focusing on finding the best gravel trails, though, so no time for an elephant tour on this trip! The food here was truly splendid, however, and was some of the best food we had enjoyed in Namibia so far.
Ride Distance: 110 km
Ride Elevation: 920 m
% Off Road: 90%
STAGE 4
Refreshed and well fed, we took off the next morning bound for Khorixas. This was an all gravel route, a rambling 118km run, with the final stretch transforming into a brisk 12km road ride. Along the way, we swung into the iGowati Lodge – a rustic place that has been lost in time, with charming thatched roof accommodations.
Our destination for the night, however, was the Etosha Safari Lodge – a spot with charming chalets nestled into the hillside. Expansive verandas offered the ideal setting to enjoy a cool beverage while we planned the next day’s excursions. We couldn’t wait to see what wonders were awaiting us in the nearby game parks! From the tranquility of the wooden verandas, you can look out over the lush landscape and even view animals at the local watering hole.
Ride Distance: 118 km
Ride Elevation: 731 m
% Off Road: 95%
STAGE 5
Excited about the wildlife viewing ahead of us, we were up early to meet with our local guide, Marc. A wealth of information about the area and the animals who call it home, Marc led us on a tour where we encountered elephants, giraffe, zebra, jackals, oryx, springbok, ostriches, warthogs and interestingly, a creature known as a ‘kudu’. We even witnessed hyenas indulging in an unexpected bath!
This spot was going to be a memorable stop, that much was easy to see. The riding around the area was a mix of sandy, packed trails and scenic gravel roads, great riding in every direction. Making the most of the daylight, we jumped into trucks for the run up to Waterburg, the next destination. We set ourselves up at the lodge inside the game reserve, and with the remaining light, we set off to scramble up to a lookout above the lodge. Views from the top were fantastic – panoramic views of the magnificent bush, delineated with long, flat gravel roads to explore.
STAGE 6
Once again, we were up and out early, excited by the endless gravel riding that surrounded us. It’s worth noting that cycling inside African wildlife parks is not the norm, of course, as most wildlife parks insist that visitors must traverse the parks only in park-approved vehicles. But getting out into the less-travelled areas on a bike allows a greater ability to access some true gems – like a wildlife park where you might find yourself pedalling just ahead of a rare black rhino who is running after you.
Admittedly, we hadn’t anticipated being chased by a huge black rhino, yet the encounter is certainly one that will stick with everyone on that tour! While the idea of a 1000 kg animal deciding to give a bit of a chase might scare the lycra right off some riders, I did exactly what our local-expert told me to do – I didn’t look back and I kept on peddling!
Of course, the park-appointed rhino ranger was close by as well. The local game expert was actually riding along with us, making sure that the situation was in hand. Afterwards, when the reality of being chased by this majestic creature had sunk in, we certainly were grateful for all the precautions we took.
As the day drew to a close we piled our bikes and gear back into the truck, and making the trek back up to Windhoek. Josh was staying on to do a few more exploration trips, while I packed up and headed home.
Ride Distance: 43 km
Ride Elevation: 159 m
% Off Road: 98%
WATCH THE FULL LENGTH RIDE VIDEO
REFLECTIONS
Back in the capital city of city of Windhoek, I attempted to process the sheer magnitude of what Namibia had shown us. The vast, open scenery that lay behind us, the endless gravel riding options – processing everything we had experienced was no small task. It was just so much more expansive and spiritually humbling than either of us had prepared ourselves for. Even with the distances we covered, there are huge swaths of the country still yet to be explored. In the northeast, there is even a tropical region, which would make an excellent place to relax after doing the riding tour. Like a tropical Eden, hidden away in amongst the treasures that make up Namibia – this was a country that never ceased to impress us.
Yes, Namibia has deserts and sand dunes. But the endless kilometres of glorious gravel roads offer a series of snapshots showcasing everything else that this fascinating country has to deliver. As proof of just how diverse the country is, both Josh and I decide that in order to really take in all that Namibia has to offer, more time – before or after the next riding tour – should be a top priority. Josh and I cannot wait to get back, and share our love for Namibia – the newest epic international ride for Glorious Gravel.